On the road between Bozeman and
Missoula you’ll see prairie grass, rolling hills, BIG sky, and mountains. I
found that very interesting about Montana. Pretty much anywhere you go in the
state (or at least everywhere I was) you can see mountains. For a prairie
girl….that’s pretty amazing. The drive from Bozeman to Missoula should take
about 3 hours on I-90. However, what you’ll learn when visiting Montana in the
summer is that every road (and I mean…EVERY road) is under construction. I
guess when you only have 3 months out of the year that the roads are clear
the state department of transportation basically launches a road construction
blitzkrieg. So a trip that should have taken 3 hours wound up clocking in at
about 4.5. The scenery was nice though.
According to my new friends in
Bozeman, Missoula was the “granola” town. Missoula is the home of the
University of Montana (not the land grant school) and is also the gateway to
Glacier National Park. As such their main focus is tourism, arts and
entertainment, local business, and microbrews. Outside of Oregon, Montana has
the highest number of microbreweries in the US. After an exhausting drive I had a lovely
dinner at Café Dolce rated the #1 restaurant in Missoula on TripAdvisor. One of
the great things about traveling alone is that I can generally get into any
restaurant I want any time I want because I’m a single. Worst case scenario, I
sit at the bar…which sometimes I prefer because bartenders are a GREAT resource
to learn where to go and what to see in their town.
Café Dolce is a historical
building set in a delightful residential area. They have limited parking so be
prepared to park on the street. They have a wonderful un-covered patio area
that is surrounded by a wrought iron fence in case the kiddies need to wander
around safely. The patio is a terrific place for a girl’s night out to enjoy
the cool Montana breeze and bug-free climate. Inside is like an Italian palazzo
with 30 foot fresco ceilings and terracotta mosaic floors. They have a friendly
looking bar area as well as a well-appointed gelato counter.
Peter was my server extraordinaire. He was friendly, punctual, well-educated on the menu and wine selections. I ordered their special of the day which was salmon (of course) served with a creamy risotto and grilled asparagus. Prior to dinner Peter brought out a basket of some of the most mouth-watering rolls I’ve ever had. As someone with a gluten sensitivity I try to stay away from the bread basket…but sometimes it’s worth it. I enjoyed that with a glass of a very crisp Pinot Grigio. When my dinner arrived Peter also brought a glass of their newest dry rose…on the house (another perk of dining solo). The rose complimented the salmon perfectly. When in Missoula, I highly suggest making time for this delightful restaurant where you can have a wonderful meal for two for right around $60.
James Bar is where my client and
I had lunch. She knows the owners and wanted me to get a good feel for the
“real” Missoula. James Bar is downtown and has the feel of an upscale pub. With
plenty of microbrews on tap you won’t run out of options. I never have high
expectations for “bar food” but was pleasantly surprised here. We both had
their steak salad which was perfectly seared Angus steak on a bed of crispy
mixed greens, local tomatoes, gorgonzola and topped with a fine vinaigrette.
This was a great lunch option as the service was friendly and fast.
My second night there I found my
way to The Silk Road, at the insistence of a client I’d met with earlier in the
day. The Silk Road is a tapas restaurant just across the bridge from downtown
Missoula. It is a tiny place popular with locals (and rated #6 on TripAdvisor).
They were only taking reservations that night but I managed to find a spot at
the bar where Travis, my barkeep, was well versed on the tapas and wine
pairings. The great thing about tapas is
you get to try several different things guilt-free since the portions are
small. I tried the seasonal watermelon salad served with radicchio and pickled
onions and a light vinaigrette. It was so light and summery! Then the grilled
asparagus (at left) which was out of sight and so tasty I could have eaten my weight in
it. Then finished with the tandoori chicken, which was just spicy enough. The
funny couple sitting next to me was visiting from Las Vegas where they both
worked as dealers in one of the casinos. We struck up a conversation and I
learned all about real estate in Montana as they had just purchased some
property where they intend to retire. At the insistence of the husband we all
ordered dessert. I ordered the gluten free chocolate flan and they ordered the
Huckleberry cobbler. Both were excellent.
Since this little gem is right in
the heart of downtown Missoula there was lots to see and do. You can catch a
glimpse of the surfers out surfing the rapids on the river and the night I was
there they were setting up for a concert in the park. Sadly, the smoke from the
wild fires in Washington had blown into Missoula by then and really upset the
quality of the air.
Missoula has a terrific downtown
area and the Convention and Visitors Bureau has done a great job of promoting
it. I love their lists of “25 Things to Do” on their website and although there
is plenty to do in Missoula, most people use this as their launch site for
Glacier and Yellowstone National Parks. The CVB recognizes this and offers great
information for planning your vacation whether you’re planning a two week
extravaganza or a simple day trip.
My lodging for this part of the
trip was the Stone Creek Lodge. It was just off of I-90 and not far from the
airport. Though not the most scenic of areas the hotel was convenient, clean,
and comfortable. The front desk staff was efficient and had made sure the down
pillows in my room had been replaced with foam prior to my arrival. As with
many business rate hotels…this one offered a decent breakfast. My dad and
brothers would have been perfectly happy with the choice of biscuits and gravy.
I however, was a little disappointed in the lack of fresh fruit and gluten free
options. This lodge was comfortable and offered free WiFi in the rooms but be warned;
because it is a “lodge” they will tack on a “resort fee” at the end of your
stay which pretty much renders the “free WiFi” obsolete.
Next up…Glacier!
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