Wednesday, September 3, 2014

Northern Exposure: Missoula, MT


On the road between Bozeman and Missoula you’ll see prairie grass, rolling hills, BIG sky, and mountains. I found that very interesting about Montana. Pretty much anywhere you go in the state (or at least everywhere I was) you can see mountains. For a prairie girl….that’s pretty amazing. The drive from Bozeman to Missoula should take about 3 hours on I-90. However, what you’ll learn when visiting Montana in the summer is that every road (and I mean…EVERY road) is under construction. I guess when you only have 3 months out of the year that the roads are clear the state department of transportation basically launches a road construction blitzkrieg. So a trip that should have taken 3 hours wound up clocking in at about 4.5. The scenery was nice though.

According to my new friends in Bozeman, Missoula was the “granola” town. Missoula is the home of the University of Montana (not the land grant school) and is also the gateway to Glacier National Park. As such their main focus is tourism, arts and entertainment, local business, and microbrews. Outside of Oregon, Montana has the highest number of microbreweries in the US.  After an exhausting drive I had a lovely dinner at Café Dolce rated the #1 restaurant in Missoula on TripAdvisor. One of the great things about traveling alone is that I can generally get into any restaurant I want any time I want because I’m a single. Worst case scenario, I sit at the bar…which sometimes I prefer because bartenders are a GREAT resource to learn where to go and what to see in their town.

Café Dolce is a historical building set in a delightful residential area. They have limited parking so be prepared to park on the street. They have a wonderful un-covered patio area that is surrounded by a wrought iron fence in case the kiddies need to wander around safely. The patio is a terrific place for a girl’s night out to enjoy the cool Montana breeze and bug-free climate. Inside is like an Italian palazzo with 30 foot fresco ceilings and terracotta mosaic floors. They have a friendly looking bar area as well as a well-appointed gelato counter.




Peter was my server extraordinaire. He was friendly, punctual, well-educated on the menu and wine selections. I ordered their special of the day which was salmon (of course) served with a creamy risotto and grilled asparagus. Prior to dinner Peter brought out a basket of some of the most mouth-watering rolls I’ve ever had. As someone with a gluten sensitivity I try to stay away from the bread basket…but sometimes it’s worth it. I enjoyed that with a glass of a very crisp Pinot Grigio. When my dinner arrived Peter also brought a glass of their newest dry rose…on the house (another perk of dining solo). The rose complimented the salmon perfectly. When in Missoula, I highly suggest making time for this delightful restaurant where you can have a wonderful meal for two for right around $60.

James Bar is where my client and I had lunch. She knows the owners and wanted me to get a good feel for the “real” Missoula. James Bar is downtown and has the feel of an upscale pub. With plenty of microbrews on tap you won’t run out of options. I never have high expectations for “bar food” but was pleasantly surprised here. We both had their steak salad which was perfectly seared Angus steak on a bed of crispy mixed greens, local tomatoes, gorgonzola and topped with a fine vinaigrette. This was a great lunch option as the service was friendly and fast.

My second night there I found my way to The Silk Road, at the insistence of a client I’d met with earlier in the day. The Silk Road is a tapas restaurant just across the bridge from downtown Missoula. It is a tiny place popular with locals (and rated #6 on TripAdvisor). They were only taking reservations that night but I managed to find a spot at the bar where Travis, my barkeep, was well versed on the tapas and wine pairings.  The great thing about tapas is you get to try several different things guilt-free since the portions are small. I tried the seasonal watermelon salad served with radicchio and pickled onions and a light vinaigrette. It was so light and summery! Then the grilled asparagus (at left) which was out of sight and so tasty I could have eaten my weight in it. Then finished with the tandoori chicken, which was just spicy enough. The funny couple sitting next to me was visiting from Las Vegas where they both worked as dealers in one of the casinos. We struck up a conversation and I learned all about real estate in Montana as they had just purchased some property where they intend to retire. At the insistence of the husband we all ordered dessert. I ordered the gluten free chocolate flan and they ordered the Huckleberry cobbler. Both were excellent.

Since this little gem is right in the heart of downtown Missoula there was lots to see and do. You can catch a glimpse of the surfers out surfing the rapids on the river and the night I was there they were setting up for a concert in the park. Sadly, the smoke from the wild fires in Washington had blown into Missoula by then and really upset the quality of the air.

Missoula has a terrific downtown area and the Convention and Visitors Bureau has done a great job of promoting it. I love their lists of “25 Things to Do” on their website and although there is plenty to do in Missoula, most people use this as their launch site for Glacier and Yellowstone National Parks. The CVB recognizes this and offers great information for planning your vacation whether you’re planning a two week extravaganza or a simple day trip.

My lodging for this part of the trip was the Stone Creek Lodge. It was just off of I-90 and not far from the airport. Though not the most scenic of areas the hotel was convenient, clean, and comfortable. The front desk staff was efficient and had made sure the down pillows in my room had been replaced with foam prior to my arrival. As with many business rate hotels…this one offered a decent breakfast. My dad and brothers would have been perfectly happy with the choice of biscuits and gravy. I however, was a little disappointed in the lack of fresh fruit and gluten free options. This lodge was comfortable and offered free WiFi in the rooms but be warned; because it is a “lodge” they will tack on a “resort fee” at the end of your stay which pretty much renders the “free WiFi” obsolete.

Next up…Glacier!

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