Northern Exposure: Glacier National Park

Well here we are…FINALLY. I hope you all are as excited to read about my adventure to Glacier National Park as I’ve been to share it with you. After being smoked out of Missoula I headed north to meet with a client in Kalispell, MT. After meeting with him, my weekend had officially begun and off I headed towards the northern wilderness. What a beautiful drive that is. From Missoula I took I-90 west to Hwy 35. From there Hwy 35 twists and turns north through small towns covered in roadside fruit stands. Little known fact, this part of Montana produces an abundance of cherries as well as huckleberries. Another little known fact to this Oklahoma girl…huckleberries can ONLY grow in the wild. In visiting with some of the locals about the predominance of this berry I was informed that they are very prolific but can only grow wild. Apparently researchers have tried to grow them in greenhouses and cross germinate them with other berry varieties in an effort to domesticate them but to no avail. So, that being said, if you are a fan of these berries you have a very limited time in northern Montana to get them…and you’ll most likely have to fight the bears for them.

I stopped along the way at one of these family run stands that seem to hug the highway in a very precarious way. I’m a sucker for lemonade stands run by little kids and when I passed this family run stand with two little kiddos perched at the counter weighing the cherries I had to stop.

Armed with 2 lbs of fresh cherries I headed back on the trail towards Glacier. 35 eventually turns into Old Highway 2 which will take you straight into West Glacier, the tourist-friendly entrance into Glacier National Park.

I got there early enough that I decided to go straight to the park to get my pass (a $25 pass is good for 7 days) for the weekend and then on to the nearest ranger/visitor station. As with most of our national parks, the visitor centers are well maintained and staffed with very knowledgeable, friendly people who can tell you all about the best trails based on your activity level, time of day, and time of season for that matter.  The weather, in late July was slightly overcast and in the low 70s at the base of the park. As I wound my way up through the park along the tree lined two-lane road aptly named “The Going to the Sun Road” the conditions got significantly more windy and of course with the rise in elevation…colder. By the time I got to the trail head my visitor center guide had suggested (Hidden Lakes Trail)…they were experiencing 50 mph wind gusts along the ridge and trail and it had dropped to about 53 degrees.

I was in no way dressed appropriately for a hike in these conditions and since I’m so accident prone, easily envisioned myself being that one solo tourist who slides off the side of the mountain trail in only her shorts, tennis shoes, and Columbia jacket only to be rescued 3 days later suffering from dehydration, hypothermia, and frostbite.

Luckily none of that happened. However, I did learn a valuable lesson…when traveling to a national park where you think you might be doing some hiking…bring your hiking shoes. I was really missing my Merrells about ½ up the “trail” that was still 90% covered with packed snow and ice. Lucky for me this was a pretty well visited trail so there were lots of people there to see me if I slid off the mountain or got attacked by a rogue bear. The trail is 3 miles round trip which wouldn’t be a big deal except for the fact that it’s pretty steep AND with the extra difficulty of slipping all over the ice…well let’s just say I was really proud to have made it to the top.

Along the way I ran into a small herd of mountain goats…complete with babies. I came around a bend in the trail only to be met face to face with this guy. I stopped in mid-step as if it were a snake and stood perfectly still until he wandered on. I’m used to being around domesticated animals, but these are wild…and had big horns…so I felt the best course of action was to remain frozen. They graciously moved along to allow me access to the path.

 

At the end this is the view. Wow!

The great thing about Glacier is there are tons of hiking trails for all levels of athleticism. There are hour hikes that are on paved trails for people with small children and then of course there are the "back woods" trails for those more experienced hikers. But each hike offers it's own individual beauty so you can't really go wrong with any of them.

After nearly being blown off the mountain, I made my way down to my accommodations for the weekend. I was really excited about this. Glacier Under Canvas, a movement nicknamed “glamping” or “glamorous camping”, is really the ONLY camping adults should do. You get all the fun of sleeping in a tent with nature at your fingertips without actually having the ugliness of rocks digging into your back all night while you worry about what critters might come slithering into your tent. I chose their large single tent with shared bathroom.

The best way to describe these tents is to envision the tent that Ernest Hemmingway might have slept in when he was on safari in Africa. They are large safari tents with king beds, wood burning stoves, rugs, sitting area, cabinet, and lanterns. Because Glacier is their newest location (they have two others: Moab, UT and Yellowstone National Park) I not only got a 15% discount for my stay but also got a brand new mattress. I tell you I’ve never slept so well in my life!

No need to bother with bringing your own linens. Imagine being at a hotel that just happens to not be in a high-rise. The wonderful people at Glacier Under Canvas come and service your room each morning with clean sheets, more firewood, etc. Since I didn’t have my own personal toilet, I got to walk down the path to the shared toilets. Now these aren’t like the giant bathrooms shared at summer camp. No these are each, individual bathrooms with HOT running water in your OWN shower, toilet and sink. There always seemed to be a plethora of soft, clean towels and rags as well as shampoo, conditioner, and body gel. FYI – this is the only place (other than registration) where there is electricity at the camp. IF you need to charge your phone…I suggest doing it while you shower.

The folks at Glacier Under Canvas are also really helpful in setting up any and all adventures you might want to have while in Glacier. I was most interested in doing an early morning horseback ride with an afternoon of white water rafting. They connected me with Amie at Glacier Guides who was absolutely wonderful! Because I had called on Friday wanting to set up my adventure for Sunday it was a little last minute. However, being a “single” I figured most places would be able to work me in.

Travel Tip #1 ALWAYS call and/or ask. Never assume that just because a company lists rules or deadlines on their website or in their marketing materials that they adhere to those. Let’s be honest, they are businesses and when they have the chance to make a buck…they will.

Amie was a doll and immediately set me up for their 2 hour white water raft trip down the middle fork of the Flathead River and also called Swan Mountain Outfitters to make sure they could also accommodate me for the morning ride. She set everything up and even asked if I had any dietary needs for my lunch that they provide. Having gluten intolerance is a bugger, but it doesn’t stop me from living life so I rarely expect companies to work with that. Glacier Guides did. They packed me a delightful gluten-free lunch and had it ready for me when I arrived at their HQ. So be sure to mention that you have dietary needs if you do.

Glacier Guides is one of the only groups in Glacier that has small rafts. They believe quality trips for their guests will encourage repeat business. Most of the other rafts I saw along the river had anywhere from 12-20 people in a raft. The gracious guides at Glacier Guides top their rafts off at eight. We had six (including our guide Tyler) in ours. What I love about smaller groups is that you have the opportunity to make it YOURS. You’ve paid for it…you might as well get your money’s worth right? I’m curious by nature and when I’m on trips like that I never hesitate to quiz the guides on everything from wildlife and nature to the best local places to eat.

Glacier Guides is very handy as it’s right on the way from Glacier Under Canvas to the park. They are the ones with the blue rafts. The other great thing is they provide all the equipment you’ll need beyond even the basic rafts and paddles. They also include wet suits, fleece jackets, and water shoes if you need any or all. The day I rafted it started out sunny and warm for the early morning horseback ride, but ended up being cold and rainy for the water portion of the day.

Tyler, our guide, was very out-going, earnest, knowledgeable and respectful. He was in his 3^rd year as a guide and knew the rivers and the park like the back of his hand. All their river guides are certified in lifesaving and CPR which I found very reassuring.

 

Prior to the river rafting I had a delightful early morning horseback ride with Swan Mountain Outfitters. They are the only outfitters authorized with park access.  They are family owned with a long history of guiding visitors throughout the park. They offer everything from 1-2 hour trail rides to multi-day drop camps. My morning guide, Kristina, was the head guide and was on her 4^th summer in Glacier. She was a student at Penn State majoring in animal science and was incredibly well versed in not only the horses, but all the wild life and history of the park. They usually cap their trail groups at 8-12, but my trip only had four (including Kristina).  Because of our small group, and probably because she personally knew the other couple on the ride, we got an extra-long ride as well as lots of personal attention.

The corral where we picked up our rides was well taken care of and just inside the park. The horses all looked in good health and were all very accustomed to various levels of riding proficiency. My sweet horse, Winchester, was sound, sturdy, and extremely responsive. Whether you’re an equestrian or just simply want to experience Glacier the way the first visitors did, this is a great (and safe) way to do it. We saw two juvenile black bears filling their little tummies with huckleberries, numerous mule deer (different from the white tailed deer we have in OK), tons of birds, flora and fauna, and a couple of hidden lakes. According to Kristina, the two hour/early morning ride is the best for seeing wildlife (outside of the multiple day trips).

Dining in the area is a bit sparse. My first night there I dined at the Belton Chalet. The Chalet is one of several historical landmark hotels associated with the park. The restaurant is a delightfully rustic, log chalet. The servers were friendly enough and I liked the “farm to table” aspect of the menu. The chef sticks to locally grown produce and works her menu around what’s in season. I had the Montana Angus filet and was disappointed. The sides of mashed potatoes, asparagus, and field green salad were all nicely flavored, but the steak left a lot to be desired. I can honestly say it was the fattiest filet I’ve ever had, and filets are not supposed to be fatty at all.

My second night there I tried the Glacier Grille and Pizza on the recommendation of Zach, my “concierge”.  They don’t have a website, but you can find great reviews on TripAdvisor. Clearly known for their pizza (and proximity to the park) this was a relaxed dining experience. A diner sort of atmosphere where you and the kids could easily roll in there sporting the dust from your day at the park and no one would think the worse of you for it. They offer a decent selection of Montana brewed beers and a huckleberry wine. I had their Reuben sandwich which was scalding hot and very tasty. This isn’t a be all-end all dining experience, but for casual, family dining it was reasonably priced and the menu offered a good selection of family friendly options (though none were gluten free).

There aren’t just a ton of options for dining out in Glacier since I’m sure most people who go there are camping and eating al fresco. But what is there offers a decent selection from family friendly to 4 star.

Leaving Monday morning to head to Billings for more business meetings, I traveled east on Old Highway 2 which took me to the eastern entrance to the park…East Glacier. This could not be more opposite of West Glacier than if Fitzgerald were describing it like East and West Orange in The Great Gatsby. For everything that West Glacier is…East Glacier is not. This place looked like every ugly description of an Indian Reservation town you’ve ever seen: small, dirty, with three-legged, mangy looking dogs roaming the one street that passed through town. This is not the place you come to stay. This is where you come to get into the park and move along.

Next I’ll be wrapping up this Montana extravaganza with my last two cities: Billings and Helena.

Northern Exposure: Missoula, MT

On the road between Bozeman and Missoula you’ll see prairie grass, rolling hills, BIG sky, and mountains. I found that very interesting about Montana. Pretty much anywhere you go in the state (or at least everywhere I was) you can see mountains. For a prairie girl….that’s pretty amazing. The drive from Bozeman to Missoula should take about 3 hours on I-90. However, what you’ll learn when visiting Montana in the summer is that every road (and I mean…EVERY road) is under construction. I guess when you only have 3 months out of the year that the roads are clear the state department of transportation basically launches a road construction blitzkrieg. So a trip that should have taken 3 hours wound up clocking in at about 4.5. The scenery was nice though.

According to my new friends in Bozeman, Missoula was the “granola” town. Missoula is the home of the University of Montana (not the land grant school) and is also the gateway to Glacier National Park. As such their main focus is tourism, arts and entertainment, local business, and microbrews. Outside of Oregon, Montana has the highest number of microbreweries in the US.  After an exhausting drive I had a lovely dinner at Café Dolce rated the #1 restaurant in Missoula on TripAdvisor. One of the great things about traveling alone is that I can generally get into any restaurant I want any time I want because I’m a single. Worst case scenario, I sit at the bar…which sometimes I prefer because bartenders are a GREAT resource to learn where to go and what to see in their town.

Café Dolce is a historical building set in a delightful residential area. They have limited parking so be prepared to park on the street. They have a wonderful un-covered patio area that is surrounded by a wrought iron fence in case the kiddies need to wander around safely. The patio is a terrific place for a girl’s night out to enjoy the cool Montana breeze and bug-free climate. Inside is like an Italian palazzo with 30 foot fresco ceilings and terracotta mosaic floors. They have a friendly looking bar area as well as a well-appointed gelato counter.

Peter was my server extraordinaire. He was friendly, punctual, well-educated on the menu and wine selections. I ordered their special of the day which was salmon (of course) served with a creamy risotto and grilled asparagus. Prior to dinner Peter brought out a basket of some of the most mouth-watering rolls I’ve ever had. As someone with a gluten sensitivity I try to stay away from the bread basket…but sometimes it’s worth it. I enjoyed that with a glass of a very crisp Pinot Grigio. When my dinner arrived Peter also brought a glass of their newest dry rose…on the house (another perk of dining solo). The rose complimented the salmon perfectly. When in Missoula, I highly suggest making time for this delightful restaurant where you can have a wonderful meal for two for right around $60.

James Bar is where my client and I had lunch. She knows the owners and wanted me to get a good feel for the “real” Missoula. James Bar is downtown and has the feel of an upscale pub. With plenty of microbrews on tap you won’t run out of options. I never have high expectations for “bar food” but was pleasantly surprised here. We both had their steak salad which was perfectly seared Angus steak on a bed of crispy mixed greens, local tomatoes, gorgonzola and topped with a fine vinaigrette. This was a great lunch option as the service was friendly and fast.

My second night there I found my way to The Silk Road, at the insistence of a client I’d met with earlier in the day. The Silk Road is a tapas restaurant just across the bridge from downtown Missoula. It is a tiny place popular with locals (and rated #6 on TripAdvisor). They were only taking reservations that night but I managed to find a spot at the bar where Travis, my barkeep, was well versed on the tapas and wine pairings.  The great thing about tapas is you get to try several different things guilt-free since the portions are small. I tried the seasonal watermelon salad served with radicchio and pickled onions and a light vinaigrette. It was so light and summery! Then the grilled asparagus (at left) which was out of sight and so tasty I could have eaten my weight in it. Then finished with the tandoori chicken, which was just spicy enough. The funny couple sitting next to me was visiting from Las Vegas where they both worked as dealers in one of the casinos. We struck up a conversation and I learned all about real estate in Montana as they had just purchased some property where they intend to retire. At the insistence of the husband we all ordered dessert. I ordered the gluten free chocolate flan and they ordered the Huckleberry cobbler. Both were excellent.

Since this little gem is right in the heart of downtown Missoula there was lots to see and do. You can catch a glimpse of the surfers out surfing the rapids on the river and the night I was there they were setting up for a concert in the park. Sadly, the smoke from the wild fires in Washington had blown into Missoula by then and really upset the quality of the air.

Missoula has a terrific downtown area and the Convention and Visitors Bureau has done a great job of promoting it. I love their lists of “25 Things to Do” on their website and although there is plenty to do in Missoula, most people use this as their launch site for Glacier and Yellowstone National Parks. The CVB recognizes this and offers great information for planning your vacation whether you’re planning a two week extravaganza or a simple day trip.

My lodging for this part of the trip was the Stone Creek Lodge. It was just off of I-90 and not far from the airport. Though not the most scenic of areas the hotel was convenient, clean, and comfortable. The front desk staff was efficient and had made sure the down pillows in my room had been replaced with foam prior to my arrival. As with many business rate hotels…this one offered a decent breakfast. My dad and brothers would have been perfectly happy with the choice of biscuits and gravy. I however, was a little disappointed in the lack of fresh fruit and gluten free options. This lodge was comfortable and offered free WiFi in the rooms but be warned; because it is a “lodge” they will tack on a “resort fee” at the end of your stay which pretty much renders the “free WiFi” obsolete.

Next up…Glacier!